HD3 is an all-in-one system with no extra components needed except your phone or computer. Simply place the speakers where you want them and connect the power supply. Hook up the included speaker wire from the powered left speaker to the right passive speaker. Then connect your music with the supplied cables - or go wireless - and that's it.

You should be able to use multiple sources with the HD3s just fine. The analog inputs on the HD3 are always active. They will play at the same time as the Bluetooth or USB input. Bluetooth and USB share the DAC though, so you can only listen to one at a time, and Bluetooth takes priority. If you're using USB for example, and start using Bluetooth, USB will mute and Bluetooth will take over. If you pause or disconnect from Bluetooth the speakers will automatically switch back to USB after a few seconds.

The HD3 includes a speaker wire with banana plugs on either end, so using them with the speakers should be a simple set up. The binding posts on the back of each speaker would need to be screwed down and the plugs would need to be inserted into the center hole (please refer to the picture for reference). You would need to make sure that each end matches with the color on the corresponding binding post; for example, if you inserted the red banana plug into the red binding post on one speaker, the same would follow suit for the other speaker. The spring style banana plugs provided with the HD3s may look like they won't fit, but they will actually compress to fit into the posts on the speakers, so some amount of effort will be needed to insert them.

Yes, you can. The HD3 speakers use a switching power supply so it will automatically convert to the different voltage. The power cable is also detachable which makes it convenient to replace the AC plug with a different type if you don’t want to use an adapter plug.

The HD3 speakers do include detachable magnetic grills. The grills have thin rubber pads to prevent marks or damage to the finish or the cabinet, so your HD3s will keep looking great even if you like to remove / replace them frequently!

Absolutely! This is especially useful for connecting wired with newer iPhones that do not have a headphone jack output. You will need to pick up the USB Camera Adapter from Apple, which allows a USB connection to the iPad (and, as of iOS7, the iPhone). Then just hook up as you would from a computer. If you'd like to be able to charge your iPhone or iPad while you use them like this, you can use the USB 3 version of Apple's USB camera adapter, which also allows passthrough charging at the same time.

Absolutely! This is especially useful for connecting wired with newer Smartphones that do not have a headphone jack output. You'll need the correct USB-A adapter cable to connect from your tablet to the USB input on the HD3. These are generally available from the manufacturer of your tablet/smartphone, local electronic stores, or even online retailers.

If the left speaker is in an easy to reach location, you can certainly use the physical knob to set volume. If not though, you can set the HD3 at a fixed volume and adjust from your source device. Around 50% is a good starting point, but you'll need to experiment to find what setting works best to give you a good overall volume, and a smooth ramp up.

Yes, an AC wall outlet near the HD3 is all you need to power the W3 or D2 wireless receiver. Simple.

Yes, there are multiple audio inputs on Audioengine powered speakers and both inputs are "open" or active so you can leave your audio sources connected at the same time.

Audioengine speakers have a low end which will easily fill a room and rival floor standing speakers many times their size, but you can also connect a subwoofer (or connect Audioengine speakers to your sub's line-level output). You can add our W3 wireless adapter for a wireless subwoofer! It's also worth noting that the HD3 includes a bass cut switch, to help them blend even better with an external subwoofer.

Sure, for HD3 you will need an inverter that can supply about 50-60 watts.

The HD3's USB interface handles up to 16-bit, and sample rates up to 48kHz, though the bit-depth will be padded internally to 24-bit. Your system will generally default to these settings when you hook up the HD3. If you mainly use 44.1K files, you might set this as the default in your system to ensure minimal sample-rate conversions. Many system players like JRiver and Amarra will default to the proper sample rate automatically.

Some computer headphone outputs have poor audio quality, so if this is your computer, try connecting from the USB port to your with HD3 or connect wirelessly via Bluetooth.

While the DAC in the HD3 is better than what what is built into most computers, adding a 24-bit DAC, such as our D1 or D3, would still be a benefit to audio quality.

Some turntables will need a preamp before being connected and others may have one built-in. Check the turntable manufacturer’s website or user manual.

This is normal. The HD3's USB interface can only accept a 16-bit format; however, the HD3's DAC will automatically pad the bit depth to 24-bit internally during playback, for lower noise and better dynamic range.

Some turntables do not have a built-in preamps and as a result you will need to add an external phono preamp between your turntable and HD3. Many turntables, however, (such as the Music Hall USB-1 or Audio Technica AT-LP120) have a built-in preamp and include a switch on the back for "line" or “phono”. For Audioengine powered speakers select "line".