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The award-winning A2+ premium powered speakers bring high-fidelity stereo sound to your desktop and smaller rooms. A2+ has quickly become the new reference standard for multimedia computer speakers.
The Audioengine A2+ Powered Speakers are the reference standard for desktop audio and these small but high-performance speakers are the perfect upgrade for all your music.
Everyone knows the difference between custom-built, small batch products and the general disappointment of mass-produced products. The A2+ was designed and is hand-built with the goal of exceeding expectations of both value and performance.
These small desktop speakers really pack a punch, making them the go-to system for desktop setups and smaller-room audio.
WHY YOU'LL LOVE THEM
Designed for desktops + smaller spaces
USB audio input
Wireless options available
The A2+ Powered Speakers can easily be connected to your computer, tablet, phone, or turntable.
No network setup, passwords to enter, or buttons to push. Setting them up is so easy you’ll be rocking in no time.
Keep your music fun, easy, and sounding great.
SMALL SPEAKERS BIG SOUND
IDEAL FOR DESKTOPS AND SMALLER ROOMS
Clear, full and powerful audio ideal for your desktop and smaller rooms. The A2+ Desktop Speakers are constructed with custom Audioengine components: aramid fiber woofers, silk tweeters, and built-in power amps wrapped in precision tuned, hand-crafted cabinets.
The bass was teased from the A2+ with some clever acoustic and electrical design without using any digital signal processing or fake bass boost circuits. To say the bass on the A2+ is substantial for their size may be an understatement, but you be the judge.
The A2+ Powered Speakers have amassed a vast collection of awards from the likes of WIRED, Sound & Vision, Gizmodo, The Absolute Sound, PCMag, and many others. What makes A2+ so special? Find out for yourself.
Here are the upgrades made to the A2+:
There are different theories, but rooms and tastes are different so it's tough to specify a "correct" placement. We suggest you experiment with different locations to see what works for you. As a general rule of thumb for the best sound stage balance, the speakers should be equidistant from side walls and a different distance from rear walls. Our front-ported speakers (such as the A2+, A2+ Wireless, HD3, and P4 speakers) do not need any rear panel clearance for better bass but recommend keeping them a few inches from the rear wall for adequate ventilation.
One of the reasons Audioengine active and passive speakers have such amazing bass in such a small package are the designs of the bass ports on each speaker. These aren’t just holes or slots in the cabinets, but specifically shaped openings with tubes designed with precise calculations. The result is incredible low end with minimal audible air turbulence. These are effectively mini-subs built into each speaker, allowing Audioengine speakers to be used with or without a separate subwoofer. It's also worth mentioning that we don’t use any enhancement circuits to add fake bass, so what you’ll hear is real bass- low and clean.
Yes. If your tablet or smartphone has a USB output and supports USB audio (refer to the manufacturers’ documentation), then it will work with A2+'s USB input. For smartphones you'll also need an OTG adapter cable to connect from your tablet to the USB input on the A2+. These are generally available from the manufacturer of your tablet/smartphone, local electronic stores, or even online retailers.
The A2+ is equipped with a power-saving circuit that turns off the final stage of the speaker's amplifier when no input signal is detected, so you can absolutely leave them on when not in use. This activates right after you stop playing music, and is instantaneous (as soon as the input signal stops and it disengages automatically once an input in reintroduced), so there shouldn't be a noticeable delay when resuming audio. It's also fine to power off your speakers when not in use if you prefer.
We are firm believers that two quality speakers will always sound better than one or more speakers together in a single cabinet, regardless of the amplifier or sound enhancing technology used. There are some decent one-piece speaker systems that simulate stereo and surround sound from a single source, but most fall way short as they can’t accurately duplicate a wide sound stage with imaging as complete and rich as Audioengine speakers.
Absolutely! Audioengine self-powered speakers include multiple analog inputs (in addition to digital inputs like USB, optical, or Bluetooth). These analog inputs are "open," or active, meaning there isn't any sort of switching built into the speakers; if both sources were playing while connected to the speakers, both would be audible. This makes it so you can leave 2 analog audio sources plugged in at the same time with no need to flip any switches!
Absolutely! It's tough to protect speakers and electronics from extreme changes in temperature and humidity. Due to that, we don't recommend the permanent installation of our speakers outdoors. It's fine though (encouraged even) to bring them outside with you all day, and our speakers are simple to set up and take down, making them perfect for this!
While the DAC in the A2+ is better than what might be built in to most computers, adding a 24 bit DAC, like our D1 or D3, would still be a benefit to audio quality.
Nope! Audioengine powered speakers have amplifiers built-in. This means you don't need any extra equipment, other than a source to play music on (smartphone, / tablet, a computer, CD player, Turntable, Etc). Just plug your source directly into the inputs on the rear panel of the left speaker with the included cables, and you're listening to music!
Sure! You will need about 100-120 watts.
Yes, just switch the voltage selector on the rear panel to match the AC power in your country before powering them on. We recommend changing the fuse when using a different voltage. For 220 volts, here's the value you would need:
5mm x 20mm - 1.6 amps @ 250 volts.
The power cable is detachable on our powered speakers which makes it convenient to replace the AC plug with a different type if you don't want to use an adapter plug.
Not necessarily. Audioengine speakers and amplifiers are very efficient and designed together as a system so therefore we get more volume output than stereo receivers or amplifiers that might higher wattage or power numbers. Due to this tuning we achieve big sound outputs with a fraction of the power required by other systems.
Swapping sides will not have any negative effect on the soundstage or quality/clarity of the speakers. This will simply give you the reverse of what the artist intended for you to hear.
Yes. You will need to pick up the USB Camera Adapter from Apple, which allows a USB connection to the iPad (and, as of iOS7, the iPhone). Then just hook up as you would from a computer.
Yes they do! They are equipped with a power-saving circuit that turns off the speaker's final stage amp. This idle mode activates right after you stop playing music. Due to this power-saving function, it's perfectly fine for the speakers to stay on all the time!
Even though Audioengine speakers have big and tight low end (which will easily fill a room and rival floor standing speakers many times their size), you can also connect an external sub if you wish. You can do so by connecting your Audioengine speakers to your sub's line-level output, or you can even add our W3 wireless adapter for a wireless subwoofer!
Yes, absolutely. All your A/V gear with an RCA or mini-jack 1/8" connector (even a headphone jack) will work great with Audioengine powered speakers.
Audioengine speakers can be easily connected to the audio output on your TV set. Any of our speakers will provide an easy setup and a greatly enhanced TV audio experience with a wider soundstage and better imaging than most sound bars!
You wouldn't be able to use a pair of headphones directly with the A2+s; in order to use headphones with the A2+s, you would need to include something with a dedicated headphone amp, such as our D1. All you would need to do is plug the D1 into your computer (either with an optical or USB cable) and connect the D1 from its RCA outputs into either of the inputs of your speakers.
All you would need to do is connect the variable output of the A2+ into the input of your sub using RCA cables.
Our woofers are made of aramid fiber and the tweeter domes are silk. Both of these materials are very robust and can handle quite a bit, therefore we decided against grill covers as they tend to negatively color the sound. Even though our speakers do not have grills they are still cat and kid-friendly!
Although many TVs have only one L/R audio output, which typically defaults to fixed, this setting can be sometimes be changed via the on-screen menu so please check your manual to see which outputs are variable. If your TV has multiple audio outputs, the most commonly variable output would be the headphone output. If your TV doesn't have a variable output at all, no worries; for larger speakers like the A5+ and HD6 we include a remote control that can adjust the volume of the speakers directly for just such a purpose.
The A2+s do not include detachable magnetic grills.
We researched adding a bamboo version to the A2+ line, but found that the speaker size is actually too small and costly to produce them in bamboo using the same process as with our A5+ and P4 speakers.
Sure. For the best audio performance we’ve included 6.5 feet of 16 gauge wire with each powered speaker system but any "stranded" speaker wire will work. The speaker binding posts on the back of each cabinet will accept bare stranded wire, however you can also use wires terminated with spade lugs, banana plugs, or pins.
Due to the electronics, cabinet materials, and high-end finish it's not a good idea to drill into your speakers; however, we have provided a 1/4" threaded insert to use with wall mounts. Please note that this insert is only meant to be used for stability with platformed stands that have this feature; the insert is not meant to hold the total weight of the speaker. We don't endorse any specific models of stands.
This can sometimes happen when the speakers and turntable are placed on the same surface. The vibrations from the speakers playing feedback into the turntables stylus, causing unwanted noise. The best way to mitigate this would be to place the speakers on a different surface. If that's not an option, we'd recommend trying out some isolation stands. For larger speakers like A5+ and HD6, the ones made by Isoacoustics work well.
The A2+ internal DAC handles up to 48K transfer rate, and up to 16 bits bit-depth. Your system will generally default to these settings when you hook up the A2+. If you mainly use 44.1K files, you might set this as the default in your system. Many system players like JRiver and Amarra will default to the proper bit rate automatically.
Even though the final amp stage is shut down during sleep, the pre-amp stage is still powered up so a slight hiss is not uncommon. If you have an analog audio cable plugged in to the speakers but not into anything else, it's also possible this could be picking up some noise as well.
Yes! We incorporate all the relevant functions and features from Bluetooth 5.0 that apply to our products! These features include; extended range, low latency (so that video and audio sync properly), as well as higher level aptX-HD, aptX, and AAC codecs (with the exception of our 512 portable speaker which supports SBC only). Keep in mind that the capability of the source is what controls the Bluetooth experience.
Yes, and we recommend that you position each so the tweeters are facing outward.
If the speaker wire connections on one side are swapped, this can result in a sound that is "scooped" where the lower frequency sounds that are mostly equal between the left and right speakers are reaching you out of phase with one another. This can result in the speakers sounding like they are lacking in bass. To check for this, make sure that the speaker wires are connected to the same color 5-way binding post on each side.
Absolutely! Use the computer's headphone output, soundcard, or DAC audio output from your Mac or PC directly into Audioengine speakers and you're good to go. PC, Mac, laptop or any computer.
Connecting the speaker wire
1. Use your thumb and finger to unscrew the connectors.
2. Insert each speaker wire into the holes on the side of connectors.
3. Retighten the connectors with your fingers.
4. The bare portion of the wire should be secured firmly in each connector.
Repeat the procedure to connect the other end of the speaker wire to the other speaker. Check to make sure none of the speaker wire strands have come in contact with a nearby connector.
As the A2+ speakers have the power amplifiers built inside, do not connect the speaker terminals to the speaker outputs of a stereo receiver.
Our powered speakers are an all-in-one solution with no extra amps or components needed! All you need to do is unpack the speakers, place them where you want, and then plug in the AC cord. Next, connect the included speaker wire from the active speaker to the right passive speaker. Then plug in your music (iPod, CD player, computer, etc.) with the supplied cables and you're ready to go.
Plug the W3 AC Power Supply (one adapter is included with the W3) into an AC outlet, connect the W3 Receiver into the adapter, and run the mini-jack cable from the Receiver to the A2+'s. If you're not using your W3 transmitter with a computer, and need a second power supply for your setup, you can find extra power supplies here. You can also use spare USB phone or tablet chargers to power the W3, just make sure they can supply at least 500mA.
Because Audioengine active speakers already have an amp built in, you never want to connect it to the amplifier output of a stereo amp or AV receiver that would typically connect with bare speaker wire or banana plugs. If you want to use an existing AV receiver as an input switcher and that system has preamp outputs (these would typically be RCA), you could connect these to the RCA inputs on your Audioengine powered speakers.
Some turntables will need a preamp before being connected and others may have one built-in. With that in mind, it is best to check the turntable manufacturer’s website, the turntable’s user manual, or you can even try your turntable without the preamp first to see how it operates.
Yes, you can. The A2+ speakers use a switching power supply so it will automatically convert to the different voltage. The power cable is also detachable which makes it convenient to replace the AC plug with a different type if you don’t want to use an adapter plug.
Some turntables do not have a built-in preamps and as a result you will need to add an external phono preamp between your turntable and the A2+. Many turntables, however, (such as the Music Hall USB-1 or Audio Technica AT-LP120) have a built-in preamp and include a switch on the back for "line" or “phono”. For Audioengine powered speakers select "line".
Sure, for A2+ you will need an inverter that can supply about 50-60 watts.
If the left speaker is in an easy to reach location, you can certainly use the physical knob to set volume. If not though, it's perfectly fine to set the A2+ to a good volume and adjusting from source. Every setup is different, so some experimentation will be necessary to find your prefered settings, but around 11 or 12 o'clock is a good starting place.
Audioengine powered speaker models have a built-in power amplifier in the left speaker so you won’t need a stereo receiver or other extra components for power.
Every setup is different, so some experimentation will be necessary to find your prefered settings, but around 11 or 12 o'clock is a good starting place if you plan on using your music source (smartphone, computer, TV, etc.) as the master volume control.
Yep, an AC wall outlet near the A2+ is all you need to power the AW3 wireless Receiver.
There are a few notable differences but both designs function basically the same. “Active” and “powered” speakers refer to speakers with power amplifiers built into either one speaker or both. Audioengine speakers were designed with the power amps in the left speaker to make connections easier as they only require one power cord and all connections are on the same speaker.
Check out our W3 Wireless Adapter set. These adapters allow you to stream wireless audio from any program/website/player to our speakers and subwoofer.
Apple's AirPort Express, the SONOS Connect, and Google's Chromecast Audio are other options that can be added to Audioengine speakers. Where the W3 is a self-contained solution, these products instead rely on your existing home network to send music to multiple speakers at once.
Yes, there are 2 audio inputs on Audioengine powered speakers so connect the Airport Express to one input and the variable output from your TV into the other. Both inputs are "open" or active so you can leave 2 audio sources plugged in at the same time with no need to flip any switches.
We use non-polarized 2-Pin IEC 320-C7 cables. These are fairly standard cables, and you should be able to find them locally if needed. You can also find them in the Accessories section in our store.
In the new A2+, we've included a linear limiter which will manage the bass at the point where bass distortion starts to occur. Being a linear limiter, it will not chop the signal but instead retains the shape of the waveform, not allowing it to go into distortion. This means if you listen to the A2+ at higher levels you'll notice the bass response is tamed and not as boomy. It’s important to note that the limiter will have no effect at normal listening levels.
Hum or buzz in the speakers is usually caused by something external to the speakers which is coupling noise into the speaker system (either through the AC lines, cordless phone, wireless router, or directly from the source input). A common reason is that the entire system is set up such that a "ground loop" results. Basically, a ground loop occurs when the AC power grounds and the system signal grounds are not at the same electrical potential. Refer to our online Setup Guides for a list of things to try.
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